“Heaven here on Earth….”

Yes, that is exactly what I had in mind when I saw clouds hovering over the city of Baguio from Beckel. Beckel is located at La Trinidad, Benguet, a province in Baguio City, here in the Philippines. The weather in this part of the country is comparatively cooler than the rest. In fact, it is the coolest part of the Philippines with a temperature range of 15 degrees Celsius – 26 degrees Celsius.

The Benguet Community

The Place

Astounding. That is the word that would closely describe how my first encounter with the community was. The serene ambiance, accentuated by the fresh scent of the pine trees surrounding the place and the stunning overlooking view, is beyond perfect. No other words best fit Beckel, but this description – the off-grid country life that most have imagined and wanted. The place was far from the city, and yet I can describe it as rich and bountiful in terms of nature-inspired simplicity. Truly an escape from the bustling metro, a sanctuary for tired souls.

The place is such a breather and definitely a lovely sight after a tiring 6-hour trip of winding roads and steep slopes. If I can describe it in another way, with just one word, I’d say it would be none other than the word “basic.” Why “basic”? What they have is enough to supply their basic needs without any extravagant luxuries.

Basic commodities are available at the shops downhill, which include the mini grocery store owned by the very generous Kagawad Vicky, who welcomed us into the community and helped us get acquainted with the locals. Then there’s the small internet cafe, the karinderya, a water refilling station, a panaderya, and an ukay ukay store, along with two other stalls that mainly sell essential goods.

If there was one thing, though, that captured my attention most, it’s a scene that I don’t see often in other places here in the Philippines. That of coffins situated beside the house or in the backyard. If someone were to ask me what the most significant landmark in Beckel is that separates it from all the other communities I have visited, it would be the coffins.

As an outsider, I have to admit that seeing the coffins for the first time was a bit disturbing. It didn’t help much that the room where Ate Nina and I occupied is overlooking a neighbor’s backyard full of coffins. But good enough for us, we slept quite like a log, oblivious of any eerie sounds in the background at night, if there are any.

Speaking of our room, we stayed at the Parish house under the care of Father Joseph Pumihic, with the help of Ate Lisa and Ate Josie. It’s a very beautiful and humble abode, and a very special place for guests. It is this quaint little Parish house that actually made my entire Beckelian experience nothing of the ordinary. The house, perched atop the hill, offers an above-the-clouds experience when the temperature drops and fog starts to cover everything below us.

It’s not a typical guest house because it’s got a very “homey” vibe to it. The faded varnish of the wooden door reveals intricate wood grains, adding a subtle vintage touch to it. Upon entering the house, guests are ushered into the living room that also serves as the dining area. It provided just the right amount of space for the entire group to fit in and huddle for the discussion nights. My “little house” impression didn’t meet my expectations; it exceeded them.

The house was very spacious inside – there are two bedrooms, a kitchen, a laundry area, and a bathroom downstairs. On the second level, there are two more bedrooms, one bathroom, and more open spaces which can be converted to another living room or an extra sleeping area if there are more guests. The balcony is another great feature of the house that complements the warm ambiance and is the perfect nook for relaxing and contemplating.

The atmosphere, weather-wise, is very suitable for traveling. Plus, the scent of pine trees and the cool breeze instantly lightens up anyone’s mood. Indeed, nature basking in this place is the best breather. Though daily walks from the barangay to the Parish house and back to the community are so different from city walks in Manila or even in my province in Bicol.

Walking here in Benguet can be exhausting if you’re not used to walking uphill and downhill on steep and winding roads. But with good company and a laidback community, I must say “exhaustion” is just a word. When we headed to Lamut, I realized this is the reason why people in Beckel are physically fit. They had to tread these roads regularly when doing their daily activities. But for visitors, like us, it would take quite a long time to adapt to these strenuous walks.

One of the major contributors to making my Beckelian experience worthwhile would be the hike to Mt. Camiling. Mt. Camiling is located outside Beckel. And I must agree with Ate Rose, one of the charity workers and our tour guide, that going to Mt. Camiling is one of the most difficult and treacherous hikes. This is mainly the reason why mass was held only once a month there in Mt. Camiling. I wasn’t geared up for the climb – very thin socks inside a pair of Chuck shoes (definitely a no-no for hiking), a heavy camera, and a backpack. I got shaking knees, aching feet with calluses all over, and a sweating, weary body during our trek.

Halfway through the climb, I almost felt the urge to back out and head back to the guest house. But seeing the two nuns who are with us, Sister Maxene, who is 65 years old, and Sister Bina, treading on the cliff with difficulty but with patience, I thought otherwise. I am younger than them, stronger even, but do I have such strong faith and motivation to reach the community as them? It came to a point where I almost felt my life was hanging by a thread when I slipped and was only holding on to a bunch of wild grass to keep myself from falling and sliding down the cliff.

Thanks to Ate Rose, who grabbed me when I slipped and helped me get back on the trail. After walking for hours, we were physically spent out, were catching our breaths, and I had already emptied my water bottle – it was indeed the hike of the year for me. Not even my hiking experiences from Girl Scout days were a match for the challenging hike in Mt. Camiling. I must say I was hurled back to being a newbie in hiking. But seeing the community surrounded by rolling hills, lush mountains, and fresh pine trees — the view was spectacular.

The People of Benguet

All the effort of going up Mt. Camiling is worth it when the locals welcomed us with smiling, exuberant faces. They were so glad and very thankful that Father Joseph and the sisters, as well as people from neighboring communities, paid them a visit. Aside from the warm greetings, they also extended their appreciation by preparing a celebration – a feast was waiting. They offered boiled saba and brewed coffee for snacks while we were resting. Then, mass started a couple of minutes after that, followed by “the feast.”

A short program was conducted after everyone had already eaten. If there is one character trait that I have noticed with the people of Mt. Camiling, it is their hospitality – a simple gesture of extending what they can offer or provide to visitors in their community. I have also witnessed the same character trait in Beckel.

The spirit of bayanihan is still very much alive in this community. Every local is intentional in actively participating in every important occasion or festivity. They share responsibility for making a festival or occasion as grand as possible. When it comes to becoming a solid community, I must say that the communities I have visited in rural areas and provinces are very much tight-knit compared to city life.

They are also closely attuned to nature and their surroundings. Aside from the fact that it is through nature that they get their source of livelihood, they have somehow perceived nature as part of who they are as individuals.  One observation that I can make from the entire duration of our stay in Benguet is that there was never an instance where I felt awkward in dealing and communicating with the people in Mt. Camiling, Lamut, and Beckel.

They never held an arrogant attitude and were just willing to share what they knew through storytelling. They have no reservations, so to speak, when it comes to their life and culture as a Kankana-ey or an Ibaloi. Yes, gossips are part of storytelling too, but they deal with it nonchalantly. This, I think, is reflective of how peacefully the dwellers of the Benguet community have lived alongside one another. I must say that to acquaint oneself with the people from Beckel, Mt. Camiling, and Lamut isn’t as difficult as acquainting oneself with the place itself.

And of course, the trip won’t be complete without trying Benguet’s very own specialty: strawberry taho (soya/beancurd). So YES, if given another opportunity to go back, I definitely would. It’s one worthwhile experience that one should never, ever miss out on.